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  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 8y 2m 27d
Posted

I know for me as a basic home welder guy, I dont purge tubes so my ss tubes get a little suggaring inside. that would afect the airflow . if you purge and the pipes are smooth than the airflow between the pipes would be fine.

 

you can buy the fg coil plugs, cut of the b series one and crimp on the fg ones.

I bought some when I was going to do the conversion.

so I have the plugs, but no coil cover or coils...hahaha

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 22y 11m 1d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Townsville
Posted

I don't think mine were purge welded (who gives a hoot really!) but the welds look like no filler was used... I really would like a 3in1 welder to learn plus bodge up anything needed.
I depinned (unpinned?) the injector plugs on my BA back when Eugene injectors were popular. No issues and then reversed them back to OEM plugs for the 60lb Siemens.
Long story short...if the pins are the same then surely the plugs only can be swapped instead of cutting and open barrel splice, ferrule or soldering?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 8y 2m 27d
Posted

you can weld ss nicely without filler and if you good with the amps there will be little to no sugaring on the inside. ive seens ome paste people use on the inside of a join, like a flux core to stop suggaring without purging.

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

I've got coil plugs coming with the rocker cover.I'm not sure if the pins are the same but it'll be worth a look. That'll be next weekend's job.

 

I'm putting the car on the dyno tomorrow to see how far I can take it. I'm not sure how much it'll make but it'll be something :launch:

  • Like 2
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

Did some tuning today. Apparently gapping the plugs did the trick cos straight away it ran up 605awkw with no tune changes.

 

I frigged around with fuel and boost and this and that, and managed 685awkw at 39.5psi. I brought it in gently as the trans wasn't happy to take much more than 30psi on the hit. There was some trans truncation going on at that power level on the road, so I've turned it back down to about 640awkw for now.

 

KtOkLlH.jpg

 

jwXUsLU.jpg

 

TEQsqL5.jpg

  • Like 7
  • Shocked 3
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

Nah no quarter mile here atm. I went roll racing with 503awkw. Now 4th gear feels like 2nd gear.

  • Like 1
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 7y 1m 5d
Posted

Damn! Staunch numbers man, and awesome to see someone doing it all themselves. 

Sorry if you've mentioned already, but what sort of built engine are you running? Any issues with the head lifting at near 40psi?

What valve springs?

  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 11y 6m 6d
  • Gender: Not Telling
Posted

The engine details are in the first page of the thread. It's a 2005 na territory bottom end with mods.

 

It looks like it pushed a bit of water a few times but that will be dealt with in a couple of weeks. That's not the head lifting but rather the gasket leaking, as it has 12mm arp studs and oversize washers. They say not to use sealant on the gasket but that is a load of bollocks! Either just going to do a reseal or machine the block in situ and install 14mm head studs. Probably just do a reseal for now, although I'll be a bit annoyed having to do all the work again if it doesn't hold up!

 

The valve springs are Crow VTKBA6T-24

 

Pics of the graphs are on the previous page @MBAF

  • Like 1

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