1/4 Mile - 13.7 Secs with traction control

[greasemonkey]

Hi guys

 

I ran my car out at Western Sydney Dragway recently and got a 13.7.

 

Car Info

FG XR6 TURBO MK1

Power: Just over 400RWKW

Trans and Diff : ZF Auto, LSD

Tyres: Michelin Pilot 4 (245/40/18 inch)

ENGINE : Tuned but all stock internals except for injectors, intercooler, pod filter, turbo (Pulsar 3584), 4inch dump to 3.5 inch Xforce

KMS: 220,000

 

I forgot to turn off traction control.  However what I noticed is that boost came on but really late down the lane, around 120km/h plus. Obviously it is earlier with traction control off and more of it.

 

I knew traction control cuts power but I don't know by how much. I stalled to around 1500rpm (factory converter) and left when I was ready. Transmission is ZF, completely stock. 

What times should I be realistically running down the 1/4???? I know it has to be better than what I did because the factory test cars in the MK1 did the 1/4 in 13.4 stock.

Tips, ideas, thoughts. I'll head back out there soon.

Edited 19/07/24 01:18 PM by greasemonkey

[Puffwagon]

You should get an 11.7 with that mph. Your 60ft is very slow and that's where all the time went.

[greasemonkey]

I floored it. My friend who drag races said the same thing also. It had to be partly the traction control.

It's good to know a rough ballpark figure. What can I realistically stall the stock trans converter too without blowing it up?

[Puffwagon]

I've taken a stock converter to 3000rpm or further a number of times and I've heard from reputable sources that 800rwkw is where the converter gets unhappy. You left at 1500 last time, next time try 2000 then work your way up. The turbo is much bigger than stock so you might need to give it a lot more to get it going. Something to consider is the tailshaft will snap if you launch it too hard, pretty sure 10psi is the danger zone for a stock FG tailshaft. You'll be around 20psi to make the 400rwkw so you'll nearly guarantee a broken tailshaft if you launch the fark out of it. Just keep an eye on how much boost it's making.

 

If it launches slowly after stalling it up or cuts the throttle while doing so, the tune might need addressing to let it stall up properly.

[greasemonkey]

Thanks Puff for that info about the stock converter. I'll try and take it up to 2000rpm. I'm not using an external wastegate or boost controller. The pulsar turbo actuators are set at 15psi. Can you run them on higher boost through a tune without a boost controller or mechanical bleed valve? Would I be making 20psi at that level of 400rwkw?

I don't want to get a new tailshaft. What are the options should I break one? How much are you looking at $$$ to get a better tailshaft?

ALSO, My car work was done by a highly reputable and proven tuner here in Sydney. However when I purchased the car, not all the receipts I was able to obtain (work was done several times over a few months).

Can I tell if my valve springs are aftermarket or stock. Is there anyway to tell? Photos from last year when I replaced my rocker cover

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Edited 21/07/24 02:23 AM by greasemonkey

[Puffwagon]

They are 100% aftermarket springs.

 

The car has a tunable electronic boost controller in the pcm and has a boost solenoid from factory. Check to see where the vacuum line from the turbo goes, it should be going to a boost solenoid that is under the fuse box. On 98 you will be making at least 20psi to have 400rwkw.

 

21 minutes ago, greasemonkey said:

I don't want to get a new tailshaft.

 

That's the end of that then lol. Search the forum to see what people have done for upgrades. Call a workshop for current pricing.

[greasemonkey]

That's great to know. They looked thick but I don't know how much thicker or the spring coil design between aftermarket and stock so its good to know.

Found the boost solenoid thanks to your info Puff. It looks pretty solid as a unit. Do these need checking or adjustment or are they pretty reliable for lifetime? There is a small loom going from it to the fuse box etc.

Now just to research about tailshafts and torque converters (in case my stock one breaks as well?). Everyone seems to go to Turbo 400 gearboxes but I like the ZF gearbox!

Any companies make decent ZF torque converters out there? Most cater for the Turbo 400 gearbox.

[Puffwagon]

I have a built ZF from RVO with a Dominator modified stock converter, and it has handled over 1000hp at the wheels through my awd territory. I'm currently using the same box at a bit over 500awkw and it shifts great. It all comes down to the tune with a ZF, as the wrong tune can quickly destroy a built box in no time.

 

Apparently the boost solenoid can get a bit sticky with age and some wd up it's guts will loosen it up. You can replace it with a Mac valve, although you may require a tune touch up, especially if you decide to use a 4 port version.

[greasemonkey]

Good to know that on big power like your Territory, these ZF boxes and stall converters have no issues.

I've seen a few people's cars on youtube with serious power recommend MonstaTorque for gearbox rebuilds (Link for monstatorque) . My gearbox is fine but the minimum package for a rebuild from Monsta is I think $8K and up. I wonder if that is the norm for a hi performance aftermarket rebuild?

Hopefully solenoid works. Maybe I should do a bit of WD-40 just as maintenance?

[k31th]

Yes, $8k is normal for a ZF rebuild by a performance shop like MT. Yes, try the "lubricate" method, first.