Fixing the BA PCM/ECU 'wont start cold' issue

[RainingPistons]

Email me the files and everything like as.build ect and photo of the ecu stickers and coded and abs codes ect I think I have a idea with how to get it all to work with this thing I'm testing rainingpistons@gmail.com

[ValleyKing]

I literally just said I don't have the asbuilt files

[RainingPistons]

If the ecu connects to forscan you can grab the asbuilt files theres asbuilt files online for nearly every BA BF FG ecu abs etc everything just search the code on the ecu sticker as mentioned and type asbuilt files and look for either pcmhacking website or another ford forum and or the forscan Australia forums its all there 

[Everything Fuel Injection]

Ive just been given this forum site, seems a couple have thought about a cheaper aftermarket ecu. Well its something ive been working on for a fair while and its getting closer.
This fully standalone Plug n play ECU will run the Engine, DBW and BTR4 transmission, Has 99% working canbus, the only thing I need to finish is the ICC and BCM security unlock.

I have written the code for requesting the Security seed, but I need to be able to decode it to send it back to unlock ICC and BCM. 

Once this is done I can finish up the ecu hardware side and get a few ordered for testing. 
you will see the speedo moving in this video, Ive set it up to show the throttle position while testing just keeping a eye on what it is doing.

[ValleyKing]

Nice work. Do keep us updated. I'd be interested in buying one of these for long term reliability.

 

In the meantime I have (at least temporarily) got my car working with a replacement ECU. Had to buy 3 before getting one with a matching VID block so everything works as it should. Most wreckers don't understand that you cant just shove in a unit with the correct model number and get it to work. So $400 later I have a working car and 3 spare ecu's to play around with. The working ecu is still 20 years old, so who knows how it will go in the long term.

 

Here's a collection of info I learned in the process:

 

- Though the form factor in the same BA/BF/FG are not compatible with each other at all. BA's/TerritorySX use the same unit, BF's/TerritorySY use the same unit

- The cold start problem is mostly (or entirely) an issue with the first series of units in the early BA's/TerritorySX model number ABU- (212-221)

- The second series BA units are apparently much better. To find the matching model add 30 to the number e.g. get an ABU-242 to replace ABU-212, ABU-251 to replace ABU-221 etc.

- Second hand units vary wildly in price from $60-$400. You can generally get a unit for most models for about $200 delivered, or about $80 at a self serve wrecker.

- None of the numbers on the unit tell you what info is in the VID block. They only tell you which version of the engine control software (strategy) is installed and which hardware type is in the unit. My new working unit has a different strategy to my original, and one I bought with a matching strategy had different VID information and was useless

- A testable symptom of a failing unit is the triggering of a low voltage error code. At the same battery voltage my busted unit was recording about 0.5V less than a working unit, so it would trigger when a working unit wouldn't

- The small amount of information in the VID block is critical to getting a replacement unit to work. Forscan reads the elements of the VID block and will tell you what the hex code is various settings e.g. ABS only speed detection is 65, Traction Control is 66, but it doesn't allow you to individually write this information or tell you what the VID block address is for the information. I could not find a hexmap of the BA VID block

- Apparently if you have a desktop harness to connect the ECU you can read and reprogram individual data blocks using windows Hyperterminal. I found a ~15 year old forum post from someone doing this on FordMods claiming successfully changing VID block info but he didn't elaborate on the details. Reprogramming the firmware requires an 18V input on one of the obd pins