Woohoo Finally Started...!

[Paradoxx]

What did you have to do with the pedals? Was it difficult to change over?

[Ralph Wiggum]

pedals are on the agenda first thing tommorow am, have to trim the brake pedal down to the same size as a manual pedal. then make a second pedal to space the first on up. i'l post pis tommorow as it do the mods...

[Ralph Wiggum]

Some pics of the box,flywheel and clutch before they went in...

[Ninka]

Some pics of the box,flywheel and clutch before they went in...

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Looks great

I bet you are itching to get on the road to try her out

[Ralph Wiggum]

Yeah i cant wait, I just sat down and made a "to do" list and its almost a full a4 page... ..so i think i better get stuck in....

[Paradoxx]

I thought it would be a case of swapping the pedal assembly... cutting it down would be a bit of a Isn't it in the wrong spot??

[Ralph Wiggum]

The clutch pedal is a seperat unit to the brake pedal assy. I have to trim the original pedal down to the same size as a manual brake pedal. Mal gives you the option to install a new pedal are but it another $275. My chicago pneumatic air hack saw will make quick work of that job...

ill tak some pics so its a bit easier to get a grasp on...

[Lawsy]

Mate, you're a weapon.

It took you 5 hours to put in a gearbox, on your own, and you haven't done one in this model before.

Brilliant, great reading.

[Ralph Wiggum]

Thanks mate....

[Lawsy]

I'm just thinking, if you stuff that pedal chop up, you're going to have to make some serious adjustments to the pedal position. I know a few things I CANNOT stand is when;

A) The brake is too close to the accelerator making it near impossible to get a size 13 on the throttle, as there just isn't any gap,

B) The brake is too far away from the accelerator, allowing you to fit a size 13 between both pedals.... and

C) When the height (both virtical height and pedal travel height) is far greater than it needs to be. As in, it feels like the brake pedal is at knee height in relation to the accelerator; even with a good twist you'll never get your foot on both, making heal toeing impossible... Even if A and B are fine.

So I'd be taking extra care to make sure you get these right, otherwise driving is going to suck if the pedals are munted.

Also, can the fulcrum point on the clutch pedal be moved? If it can, decrease the fulcrum point, moving it toward the load (the clutch), if the positive direction is toward the effort (your foot).

I think BCL should look into this, seeing as his clutch is basically snap on/snap off. This might give him a slightly more forgiving drive, without effecting clamping pressure....

One reason I'm mentioning this is because I think you'll also find this helpful if this new clutch has significantly more grab than standard, as I know even the standard clutch can be slightly unforgiving and inconsistent until its bedded in...

Another reason I'm posting this is because I've just never heard of anyone being able to do this, and I don't know why. Considering that there is always 1-4cm of travel on either side of the fully engaged/fully disengaged points (in basically every clutch ever made)... Usually 2cm or so at the top and around 5 at the bottom. So there is room to move here...

If this is impossibly, I'd love to know why. If it is possible, then I'd love to be able to adjust the fulcrum point on my clutch to suit my drivnig style more (you see, my car has the opposite problem; the clutch is just far too forgiving...).