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  • <put funny sh*t here>
  • Member
  • Member For: 19y 9m 4d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Perth, NOR
Posted

What I did when I took my turbo and lines off, was to put your accelerator flat to the floor while the car is off, and crank the engine over for about 3-4 seconds, and do this a few times. The car will not start cos your foot is down on the gas. This should get the oil flowing through the lines I think?

  • 3 months later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 17y 10m 18d
  • Gender: Male
Posted
has anyone spoken to garret about this problem I'm sure they had a hand in the development of the turbo system

I heard or read somewhere (maybe on this forum) that they have the filter there cause garret wouldnt warrant there turbos unless ford put it on. Reason bein I beleive is some problem with removing all the sand from the block after casting them.

The way I see it is peaple are taking them off and finding small shavings of metal so they are doin there job really.

Replaced after a run in period I think they would be fine.

Ive done near 50k and I will be changing it at my next service.

cheers.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Member
  • Member For: 20y 1m 18d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Brisbane
Posted

if you back flushed it with carby cleaner and compressed air (through the turbo line), would that do a similar job (provided you were changing your oil?

  • It's not a MKI!
  • Member
  • Member For: 18y 1m 24d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Earth
Posted

You could try, but be very careful with the compressed air.

You may cause the screen to collapse.

  • Forged Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney
Posted

Considering the standard line is solid and has banjo fittings on each end you'd have a hard time getting any decent pressure through it with either the carby cleaner or compressed air. Not too mention the left over carby cleaner that will inevitibly be left in your sump going all through your oil galleries and crank journals.

In short - no, don't do it that way. Either do it properly or get rid of it and get a remote filter like the one ETM offers.

  • cj_ak
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 1m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Ropes Crossing
Posted

im interested in peoples opinion on how to prime the oil through the lines before attaching to the new turbo

im in the same position as 'çivillian'

dropped off mt turbo for the ute at gcg to be rebuilt today, hopin to fit this long weekend

any ideas guys

  • Forged Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney
Posted

Take the relay out for the fuel pump, it will turn the motor over which will in turn push oil through the lines and motor, but it won't start the engine and move the turbo too much before it gets fully lubed. They don't need much though, so I don't think you need to be too worried about it at idle speeds

  • cj_ak
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 1m 12d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: Ropes Crossing
Posted

the relay is located in the engine bay right?

if so, once it is removed should I turn the key in the ignition to 'on' for a few seconds

  • Forged Member
  • Legacy Donating Member
  • Member For: 19y 6m 5d
  • Gender: Male
  • Location: SW Sydney
Posted

Yes its in the engine bay fuse box, once you've removed it, just crank the motor over, so hold it on the "Start" position for a few cranks - probably between 5-10 to get it all the way to the turbo

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