arronm Dropping a turd Legacy Donating Member 9,520 Member For: 18y 9m 13d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 28/07/14 02:27 AM Posted 28/07/14 02:27 AM Take it out and throw it far away.
GUN-808 Member 251 Member For: 12y 8m 29d Gender: Male Location: Gold Coast Posted 28/07/14 08:26 AM Posted 28/07/14 08:26 AM Thanx guys .. yes im an idiot :D
"Captain Retard" Member 1,417 Member For: 12y 3m 6d Gender: Male Location: Shellharbour NSW Posted 28/07/14 11:03 AM Posted 28/07/14 11:03 AM No mate your just trying to remedy a FORD built in f$$kup! 1
Saski Member 68 Member For: 17y 10m 9d Posted 29/07/14 11:53 AM Posted 29/07/14 11:53 AM No mate your just trying to remedy a FORD built in f$$kup!I think the problem is with service intervals. I change my oil and do an oil flush every 6,000 odd kms and never the ford recommended 10,000+. My car did over 240,000 with the factory filter before I changed it to a new factory replacement filter only because of new tune witb more boost was being done and I found this to be cheap insurance. My car had been previously tuned for several years prior to that.Theres two schools of though 1) to change to an after market filter and 2) to replace with a factory filter...both have merits......do whatever makes you sleep well at night
bjc Legacy Donating Member 2,823 Member For: 22y 11m 5d Gender: Male Location: Townsville Posted 30/07/14 07:51 AM Posted 30/07/14 07:51 AM You forgot the third and cheapest thought which is to remove the standard filter and not use one...If WRX owners do it with their little teeny weeny turbo-eeny then we have no problems with ours! 3
Saski Member 68 Member For: 17y 10m 9d Posted 30/07/14 11:10 AM Posted 30/07/14 11:10 AM You forgot the third and cheapest thought which is to remove the standard filter and not use one...If WRX owners do it with their little teeny weeny turbo-eeny then we have no problems with ours!lol yes but I was thinking of the options when using 'a' type of filter.Yes there is this 3rd option too
Ralph Wiggum Moar Powar Babeh Legacy Donating Member 19,334 Member For: 20y 10m 16d Gender: Male Location: Perth Posted 30/07/14 11:38 AM Author Posted 30/07/14 11:38 AM The original reasoning behind an input screen is sound for a sand cast block. Ford forgetting to mention it needed to be removed at the first service? Not so sound. 2
boegey Member 123 Member For: 12y 6m 8d Posted 17/10/14 04:52 AM Posted 17/10/14 04:52 AM I just bought one of the earls turbo oil supply kits and was wondering how much it would cost to get a mechanic to install it's going in for a service next week but if it's gonna cost me an extra 100+ to get it installed I'll do it myself it sounds pretty simple. How much have use been charged for it??
Saski Member 68 Member For: 17y 10m 9d Posted 24/10/14 09:23 AM Posted 24/10/14 09:23 AM An hours labour should cover it by a mechanic although it shouldnt take more than an hour. You dont want to rush and kink the pipe that's on the engine block end when removing as you may want to put it back if you ever sell the car. 1
Mace1979 New Member 2 Member For: 12y 2m 6d Posted 28/11/14 12:45 AM Posted 28/11/14 12:45 AM (edited) Small revival on this 11 page thread.After reading the entire thread, I decided not to bother with the Earls Oil Filter kit I had bought and decided to just remove the existing in line filter (my car has done 200,000ks)I used the following tools:7mm socket8mm socketlong extensionmid extensionRatchet24mm deep socketPhillips Head screwdriverVery small but long Flat blade screwdriverRag to clean your fingers, barely any oil in this method.Building on all notes from this thread, I took the following method:Using the 7mm socket and short extension and ratchet, I loosened the flexible air intake hose away from the airbox lid.Using the Phillips Head screwdriver I removed the intake snorkel.Using the 8mm socket and long extension and ratchet, I removed the three bolts holding the bottom of the airbox in.With the airbox removed, locate the oil supply line electrical connector and disconnect, eyeballing using a torch next to the throttle body.Using the 24mm deep socket and mid extension and ratchet, I removed the connection up to the banjo connector. Ensure to catch the copper washer. (The banjo connector and line did not show any movement, you may need to secure the 24mm bolt behind it if it does move. A 24mm long ring/open ender inserting from above, would do this.)At this point, using the very small flat blade screwdriver, gently insert into the pass through bolt. If it goes in more than an inch, the filter has already been removed.Otherwise, gently but firmly remove the banjo connector and collect the copper washer. Note, one side will likely be rougher than the other.Using the 24mm deep socket and short extension and ratchet, remove the last bolt.The following was outside my process so not sure on tools; Inspecting the last bolt, take out the circlip and the filter and discard both.Installation is the reverse of removal.This did not require removal of the car's Z9 oil filter, did not need any jacking up, was not tight to work on, did not lose me any skin off my fingers and all up took me 30 minutes.Thankyou to all who contributed to this thread. Edited 28/11/14 12:48 AM by Mace1979 3
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