2007 Fpv Tornado Ute - Tinkering & Setup

[Ralph Wiggum]

Would you like a video of my pressing the volume up/down/seek/source buttons and the deck responding or will you just take my word for it?

Have fitted to ba/bf and fg. Needs power/earth/canbus connection (usually grab from the red/white wire under the column) and then program it. Works a treat.

[k31th]

Just your word would be sufficient, thanks

[Ralph Wiggum]

Also available here

https://www.elite-electronics.com.au/In-Car_Entertainment/Accessories/Metra_Axxess_ASWC_Steering_Wheel_Control_Interface?cPath=93

[Lennox]

Would you like a video of my pressing the volume up/down/seek/source buttons and the deck responding or will you just take my word for it?

Have fitted to ba/bf and fg. Needs power/earth/canbus connection (usually grab from the red/white wire under the column) and then program it. Works a treat.

Where'd the guy put the deck on the fg? Or was he controlling a digital processor or something?

[Ralph Wiggum]

*not my pic

Had a facia similar to his installed

[sixman]

You can fit headunits in the FG. Either need to mod/cut the area behind to make it fit. Or use a low depth mechless (no CD mechanism) headunit which is what I did with one of Stav's plates.

[Tocchi]

Sounds like a bit of work, but should end up looking good and driving well.

I hope I'm wrong but it sounds like your gearbox maybe bringing all the boys to the yard

Edited 24/06/15 05:34 AM by Tocchi

[PhilMeUp]

Wednesday, 23rd June, 2015

I’ve had a spare pair of front wheel bearing hubs sitting around for a while but they were left out in the rain for a few days. I’ve dropped them off at Aeroplate in Welshpool, where they’ll be bead blasted back to new condition. Although I’d love to just buy brand new hubs for both sides, I’m going to have to watch the budget in case I need to spend a bunch of money on engineering reports to get the car licenced in WA.

The first day (yesterday) turned out to be a bit of a disaster.

When I first drove the car it went well. Then, last night, it went into limp-home mode.

The car crawled home, where I plugged in an ELM327 OBDII cable and ran FORScan to check for diagnostic trouble codes.

Amongst others, there were these relevant codes:

P2110

Description: Forced limited RPM (guard mode).

This DTC indicates the engine is now operating in a FMEM (Guard mode) strategy.

P2135

Description: Throttle position (TP) sensors disagree.

Sensor: Damaged throttle body sensor.

Electrical: Damaged or defective wiring between the throttle body and PCM.

P0121

Description: TPS track A out of range (throttle not closed at idle) (TP1).

Mechanical: Damaged sensor and or throttle body.

Sensor; Damaged sensor or contaminated track.

Electrical: Wiring/connectors damaged or loose between sensor & PCM.

Other: Defective PCM.

I’ve never had any trouble with a throttle position sensor (TPS) before so I was clueless about what to do. I removed it and had a look.

After various internet searching and reading it seemed that the next step was to replace the TPS. Luckily, as the throttle body on this car has been relocated to the front of the engine bay, accessing the TPS was simple.

After realising that there was no way of troubleshooting it I then went out to get a matching one off a car wreck. Both of them had the same code in the plastic in very small writing - VP4L7U-9E928-AA.

I put the replacement TPS on and started the car. No change - the car idled rough and the ETC light was lit up on the dashboard.

Time to have a look a look at the spark plugs. This was easy - there is no crossover piping running over the coil cover. Easy access.

Some of the spark plugs had a lot of corrosion, indicating that in the past water had been getting past the coil cover and down into the spark plug holes. I’m assuming that a previous owner has been washing the engine bay regularly, but without knowing to keep water off the coil cover.

I haven’t bought new spark plugs yet, so figured I might as well clean up the existing ones.

Five of the spark plugs are NGK BKR7E, with one of them being a Nippon Denso. I have no idea why one of them is different. I’ll buy new spark plugs tomorrow - probably the same ones again.

The rear spark plug had the most signs of previous moisture.

The worst spark plug, before having a go with the Dremel.

After using the Dremel with a small wire brush. A massive difference.

The same spark plug, after I cleaned up the threads and outside of it.

Luckily, I had bought a bunch of small wire brushes a while ago. I went through three of them cleaning the six spark plugs. The wire bristles kept flying off. Some were imbedded into my legs, some got stuck in my t-shirt and others went into my face. Eye protection was a necessity - I wore safety glasses.

The six spark plugs, after cleaning. A bench grinder with a wire brush would do a similar job, but the Dremel and smaller brush got into the electrode ends much better.

The coils also had signs of moisture.

The cleaned spark plugs and coils.

I put a few dabs of dielectric grease in the end of each coil and spread it around with a small flat-blade screwdriver.

Time to put the spark plugs back in.

Each spark plug hole has signs of previous moisture. I’ll clean this out another time.

Everything back in place.

Normally I would be doing this sort of job in the carport, but replacing the TPS and checking the spark plugs were both quick and easy jobs.

It was a tad cold outside tonight - 7.7 degrees when this photo was taken.

[PhilMeUp]

The coolant looks like orange juice. I’ll get the cooling system flushed later on, but I’ll probably drain the coolant and put some new stuff in as soon as possible.

Much to my disappointment, the battery is a no-name generic one. It doesn’t even have the CCA and CC specifications on it. I recently bought a Ctek MXS25 battery charger, so put the battery on the recondition mode for the night.

The problem with taking photos tonight was that I had to breath in each time I took a photo. If I breathed out within a few seconds of taking a photo then the photo would be obscured by a cloud of vapour (from my breath).

Knock off time. I took the car for a drive and much to my delight it ran well. For about 10 minutes. Then it dropped back into limp-home mode. Bugger.

I still haven’t figured out why the car keeps doing this, so that will be the next task.

So much for buying a car that I could drive straight away, instead of spending hours working on it first...

[barnz]

Needs to see a toona to be on the safe side I think Phil? Bloody good score for that money though!