GT3576r Exact Full Specs

[SydCrazi]

Hi guys. A bit technically challenged understanding all the numbers on the factory turbo. Want a direct bolt on replacement so need ALL the specs to understand. Inlet/Outlet mm, flange type, why some 3576R are 4 or 3 inch, what does T3 mean and does moving to .61 AR make a massive difference to the pep the factory one has? And lastly moving to ball bearing over journal bearing, is this a spool up thing? Some potentials below, but really want those FULL specs please?

 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com.au%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F153213600339

 

MERTOP T3  Dual Ceramic  Ball Bearing Turbocharger GT35 GTX3584R Universal Performance Billet Compressor Wheel TURBO 400-750HP
https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/Bwh28iM

[k31th]

here's the specs on the turbo's on falcons:

https://www.fordxr6turbo.com/forum/topic/58603-turbos-on-the-fg-falcon/?do=findComment&comment=951377

 

All factory turbo's on falcons are internal wastegates. The springs on the wastegate actuator vary model by model, though.

 

Some 3576R's are 3" inlet and some are 4" inlet because of the front-housing, that's all. Stock is 3" on a falcon.

 

T3 is the size of the exhaust-housing-to-exhaust-manifold connection flange.

 

.61 A/R is only a little bit better than the stock .5 A/R and can make a difference to the performance of the factory turbo if it has the supporting mods and tune to suit it.

 

ball-bearing over journal bearing is not for spool up, but for taking longer to drop off boost in gear-change scenario's and not needing systems like turbo-timers to protect the journal bearings, mostly. From turbo to turbo, there are some other benefits to speak of, etc.

The turbo in your fist link won't fit without serious exhaust modifications because it's an externally wastegate'd turbo, has a v-band dump and exhaust manifold flange connectors, too. Unless you want to pay for the custom mods to the exhaust, too, it wouldn't be worth it.

 

The turbo in your 2nd link (by it's description alone, as the link doesn't actually go anywhere) is more of a better upgrade, if it's more in line with the factory turbo's specs etc.

[SydCrazi]

Thanks @k31th :-) 

Edited 16/10/18 09:01 AM by SydCrazi

[k31th]

no worries

[SydCrazi]

Mate one last question. Why does V-Band not match, what is it? All the GTX3576R on ebay say V-Band. 

[k31th]

V-band is a connection type that's not like a stock/OEM bolted flange. It just has a V-band clamp (that's like a worm drive hose clamp) that holds the connection together and is faster to remove/install. But a bolted flange is cheaper and easier to connect for a layman.

[SydCrazi]

OK think I've found one that's a little better than stock and bolts straight on. Option 3, 0.62 AR I'd go for.. So lemme know if it won't go straight on please because of something not matching.. 

 

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60755289529/GTX3576R-GT3576R-Turbo-charger-Dual-Ceramic.html?s=p&spm=a2706.7843299.1998817009.18.1c8f5075EUn95h#show_specifications

[El Andrew]

Looks like it is still v-band?

 

What is you reason for replacing your existing turbo and looking at Chinese turbos?

 

Edit: sorry saw there were multiple turbine housing options, some aren't v-band

[SydCrazi]

Hi mate. If you scroll to the bottom, you'll see option three is 3" 4 bolt with .63 AR. Everything comes from China lol. Existing turbo needs replacing.

[Puffwagon]

On 16/10/2018 at 7:20 PM, k31th said:

fist link

 

51 minutes ago, SydCrazi said:

OK think I've found one that's a little better than stock and bolts straight on. Option 3, 0.62 AR I'd go for.. So lemme know if it won't go straight on please because of something not matching.. 

 

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60755289529/GTX3576R-GT3576R-Turbo-charger-Dual-Ceramic.html?s=p&spm=a2706.7843299.1998817009.18.1c8f5075EUn95h#show_specifications

 

Stick with the 1.06 turbine housing as a .63 will get choked very quickly and may well boost creep with a standard wastegate hole, which could induce an overboost condition.

 

It would come on a bit quicker which, firstly, isn't necessary and second, will change the airflow a bit, early in the rpm range. It might need a quick tune to add fuel down low.

 

The extra back pressure is going to exacerbate the already aggressive factory timing and you could end up with a issues down low if it leans out and a slug up top as it pulls timing out to combat the extra heat produced in the combustion chamber, as it reduces the detonation threshold.

 

That link shows the turbo costing up to 870aud. Rather than try and save just a few hundred dollars, I'd recommend buying a genuine chra, approx $1100, and fitting it yourself, or if needed, getting your guy to do it for you.

 

Will it bolt on? Probably, you might need to rotate the housings to fit. As far as something "not matching", the turbine housing is not matching a 4 litre barra by a long shot.

 

#2c

Edited 17/10/18 11:40 AM by Puffwagon
moved a comma/added a comma