Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 07/12/21 02:17 AM Author Posted 07/12/21 02:17 AM Tiny update, managed to get hold of a set of rings for the cp pistons already in the motor so they'll be here soonish. Also went and had a very careful look at the head and valves and some of the valves are indeed bent, even though it's not very noticeable. Pita but on the plus side there is room for an upgrade there too in the form of oversize valves. In other news, Spool do a billet oil pump too now. 2
Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 09/12/21 09:30 AM Author Posted 09/12/21 09:30 AM Rings arrived today. Looking forward to filing them for 4 hours again... Not! 1
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 30,020 Member For: 18y 3m 28d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 09/12/21 09:32 AM Posted 09/12/21 09:32 AM take 'em to an engine place and get them to do the filing down for you with one of those ring gap machine thingo's?... you only need to take a block (or they have a correct bore size example) and the pistons and the rings to measure the gap and adjust?
Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 09/12/21 10:04 AM Author Posted 09/12/21 10:04 AM I have a ring gap machine thingo here to do them with the current block. Mine is a manual grinder which I prefer, as you can temper the end of the rings with an auto machine if you aren't careful. This makes the ends more prone to cracking. It takes the same amount of time to do it with a manual machine and you can go too far much easier with a powered grinder as well. It's the same process at my house or the shop so I'll save the money and do it myself...still takes a few hours at a minimum though. Also having seen how some places file their rings, I want to do it myself so I know the gaps are where they should be, and not a few thou too wide or too tight. A long comment to a fairly simple sounding process but there is a lot of time in building an engine right, so yerp 1
k31th less WHY; more WOT Site Developer 30,020 Member For: 18y 3m 28d Gender: Male Location: Melbourne Posted 09/12/21 10:12 AM Posted 09/12/21 10:12 AM Fair enough, if you've got the manual machine. 1
Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 24/12/21 02:50 AM Author Posted 24/12/21 02:50 AM ARP 2000 7/16 rod bolts or ARP L19 7/16 rod bolts Worth the upgrade to the beefier ones or not bother with it. Gonna replace them either way and it's only a couple hundred more dollarydoos for the better ones. Car is gonna be revved to fark but $200 saved is 10 goonbags on the cupboard...or so the saying goes. 1
Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 24/12/21 04:14 AM Author Posted 24/12/21 04:14 AM To clarify, I already have ARP 2000 7/16 bolts in it now but aren't going to reuse them.
gaz097 Legacy Donating Member 1,752 Member For: 15y 17d Posted 24/12/21 04:25 AM Posted 24/12/21 04:25 AM Go the L19's if you want to rev it. 1
Puffwagon Legacy Donating Member 16,348 Member For: 11y 6m 9d Gender: Not Telling Posted 24/12/21 04:34 AM Author Posted 24/12/21 04:34 AM I was gonna anyway but I like to hear what other people have to say about it. It seems like a no brainer as it's only $200 more. Still if someone has been revving their car to 8k regularly for several years on the arp2000's it's probably not worth the extra coin.
boakesautomarine Member 49 Member For: 6y 4m 27d Posted 24/12/21 05:05 AM Posted 24/12/21 05:05 AM I’m only running 2000s in the dynomite rods. They have had them to 10,000 with 2000s 😆 1
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